Phoenician Steps
During a trip to Italy in the summer, initially staying in Positano and then moving onto Sorrento, it was a short hop from there to Capri, an island situated in the bay of Naples. Fortunately I wasn’t going for the shopping, as it is very expensive. However, it does have the Scala Fenicia or Phoenician Steps. These connect the port of Marina Grande to Anacapri, a town situated about 300 metres above sea-level. This consists of 921 stone steps, dating from between the 7th and 6th centuries BC, built by the ancient Greeks.
It was around 9am, dry and sunny, temperature 19 degrees Celsius and humidity around 76%, so conditions could have been more challenging, hence the early start. However, it is difficult to appreciate climbing this number of steps which took the best part of an hour. It is reasonably steep, but the steps are in a decent enough condition, though care does need to be taken. There were a couple of folk in front but other than that, it was quiet.
The view is stunning. As you climb higher it becomes more surreal, as the houses in the town below grow smaller and the distance you can see across the water becomes ever greater. You know you are reaching the top when you discover the ancient chapel dedicated to Sant Antonio of Padua, the patron saint of Anacapri. After that there is a stone archway which historically marked the border between the towns of Anacapri and Capri and you know you’ve made it to the top.
The fun doesn’t stop there though. It’s a short walk to the chairlift which takes approximately thirteen minutes, transporting you to the top of the mountain. At approximately 589 meters above sea-level, if you thought the view from the top of the steps was magnificent, then the view from here is next level. The chairlift doesn’t stop. You have to step in, let it slam into you as you sit down and make sure you pull down the safety barrier as you are whisked at speed up the mountain. Once at the top, the chairlift still doesn’t stop. You need to be ready to lift the safety barrier and slide off and move quickly to the side. You repeat the process on the way back down. There is no elegant way to do this and it is quite amusing to see let alone take part in.
This was well worth the effort for the views. A taxi ride back down to the Marina was very welcome and only took ten minutes. It’s a one off event and I’m glad I experienced a walk that has been in place for over two and half thousand years. A beer was in order once back in Capri. That was also welcome, though the cost – much like the view – was sky high!