The Black Forest
On leaving Basel in Switzerland, next stop was Breisach in Germany and from there a bus up into the Black Forest, which is quite amazing to see. It’s been the background for many a fairy-tale that came from the brothers Grimm and although a number of the stories they collected came from all over Germany, the association of them to the Black Forest is part of the culture. If you ever need a wood as a backdrop for a plot then the Black Forest is it.
While there I saw one of the world’s largest cuckoo clocks which was pretty impressive. It’s the size of a house and is in full working order. This is located in Hollsteig, in the municipality of Breitnau. There was also a demonstration of how to make an authentic Black Forest Gateau in the local shop there. Cuckoo clocks are often associated with Switzerland, but they were invented in the Black Forest. There is an astonishing array of clocks on sale here at some eye-watering prices. I also took some pictures of grandfather clocks to add to my collection.
There is a fair bit of history associated with this place. There is a hotel (or inn as it would have been centuries ago) called the Hofgut Sternen which apparently Marie Antoinette stopped at in May 1770 while on a journey from Vienna to Versailles, the bridal train taking in the Black Forest via the Hollental Valley. She was on her way to marry King Louis XVI in France.
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe visited in 1779, describing the Hollental as a “Valley of Hell.” I see from online that the literal translation of Hollental is ‘Hell’s Valley.’ He did, however, appreciate the intimidating sight the valley is and documented the important role this route plays in travelling across Europe. I did take a photograph of a building which had a name plaque beside the door with Goethe on it. I assume this is where he stayed while passing through. I read that Napoleon III also visited this location.
American author Mark Twain visited in 1878, and remarked that “Here… you lose track of time in ten minutes and the world in twenty.” I think that’s a fair assessment.
Having said that, while taking a moment to rest in the sun, there was a mighty roar, and over the tops of the trees appeared two black, jet fighter planes, who banked ominously in a ninety-degree arc before straightening up and accelerating away at an astonishing pace. They were there and gone within a few seconds. That for me was the most disturbing aspect, because without access to the technology to forewarn of their imminent arrival, they were above us within the blink of an eye. I assume the area is used for military manoeuvres, and was an unsettling reminder of a dark aspect of the twenty-first century. They were incredibly low and if this had been a war-zone, we would have been wiped out in seconds. It was a completely unexpected and sobering experience, heightened by the knowledge of what is occurring in the world today, while trying to relax and forget for a moment, in what is an unspoiled corner of nature.
A highlight was visiting St. Oswald’s Kapelle (Chapel). Dating from 1148 it is considered to be the oldest surviving parish church in the High Black Forest. Dedicated to St Oswald of Northumbria, an Anglo-Saxon king of the 7th century, the patron saint of crusaders in the Middle Ages. One of the smallest I’ve visited, but no less interesting and I’m glad I went. It’s very plain, both outside and in, with a flat, wooden ceiling. There is a metal grill in place to protect the altar. Due to the chapel being burgled, the statues are copies. The winged altar consists of painted panels, (with a number of Saints, and then the twelve apostles along the bottom) and is the only surviving one from the late Gothic period in the Black Forest. Not for the faint of heart, but when standing outside the chapel, there is a grilled off area you can peer into and see a pile of skulls and bones that have been stored there.
A bus back to Breisach, and a visit to St Stephansmunster (St. Stephen’s Minster) which sits on top of a hill overlooking the town completed the day. The views are stunning, though the climb was a little challenging. Heat was 27 celsius, and with all that stone underfoot and the heat bouncing of the walls on the way up, made it feel like walking in an oven.
Built between the 12th and 15th centuries in Romanesque and Gothic style, it’s size and grandeur provided a nice contrast to St. Oswald’s Chapel from earlier. Inside, the arched ceilings were in a familiar style of such a place of worship, but not ornate or decorated in any fashion, simply plain off-white or cream colouring. Very much the same shade as the inside of St. Oswald’s Chapel in fact. The winged altar however, is intricately carved from wood and overall looks stunning, given the sparseness of the rest of the interior.
A full-on day, but hugely enjoyable and extremely interesting. Ending the evening with a single malt whisky when back onboard the boat was perfect.
The Fiction Factory 