Inchmahome Priory
This has been on my list for awhile, so I was excited to finally head up to the Lake of Menteith and see the Inchmahome Priory for myself. The remains of this Augustinian monastery are located on the largest of three islands in the lake, which means access is by boat. I’m becoming well used to this mode of transport, having taken several boat rides in Croatia earlier this year, the ferry to the Millport on the Isle of Cumbrae, and a trip down the river Rhine last month. The boat to access Inchmahome was a twelve seater, which we had to evenly space ourselves around to ensure the craft sat so as to balance it out. The guide provided us with background information on the area during the ten minutes or so it took to reach the island.
There is a sense of stepping back in time as this small corner of Scotland has remained largely untouched. The priory was founded in 1238 by Walter Comyn. Unfortunately it is very much a ruin these days, but is still worth a visit, as it has a certain majestic quality despite being in disrepair. I was fortunate the sun came out, and what is left of the ornately carved masonry is a joy to see. You can get a sense of how the building was laid out from the information board. I can recommend purchasing the small guide book, as that provides all the detail on how the place would have looked before it was abandoned after the Reformation of 1560. The Priory has played host to some famous visitors including Robert the Bruce who is believed to have sought refuge here in 1305, 1308 and 1310. Mary Queen of Scots who turned up in 1547 when she was four years old. There is what is called Queen Mary’s Bower, which is a small enclosure of trained boxwood trees, and a sheltered lawn called Queen Mary’s Garden. There is also three, sweet chestnut trees which are incredibly twisted. They remind me of something I would expect to see in a fantasy world, such as Middle Earth in Lord of the Rings. It is believed they were planted in the 1500’s, but the soil is not the best for growing. Over the years the bark has split, and has resulted in the trunks becoming gnarled and twisted.
You can walk around the island, which takes fifteen minutes or so. The neighbouring island of Inch Talla can be seen along with the ruined castle of the earls of Menteith, though this is barely visible due to the vegetation. Our guide on the boat back, took us towards the island for a better look, but I could only make out a little of what is left standing. Maybe a visit either early or later in the year would afford a better view.
For me the wow moment is the Chapter House. This has a roof when it was converted into a mausoleum in the 1600’s. It now contains memorials from the church in order to protect them from the weather. On entering, there is the double effigy of Walter Stewart who died in 1295 with his countess, Mary. You can see from the picture I took that accompanies this blog, the unusual pose, with the couple facing each other. This is uncommon for such medieval memorials, and quite touching to see. I felt like I was intruding on walking in and seeing the couple there. It was an odd and unexpected moment, The visit was worth it for that alone. There is a second effigy of an armed knight and a gravestone from the 1300’s featuring Sir John de Menteith who died in the early 1300’s.
I thoroughly enjoyed the visit. It’s a tranquil place, made more special by its location, giving me time to slowdown and reflect while exploring the island. One other thing. If you enjoy a pub quiz, remember that the Lake of Menteith is Scotland’s only lake!
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